DVX-100A

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2000lux

2000lux

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I have a documentary shoot next weekend (interviews and B-roll)using a DVX-100A in 24P, 16x9. I've shot a couple of things with one before (in 4x3). However, I'd still like to hear any advice you might have on working with the camera (other than the usual rants about using handycams)?
 
2000lux

I'm sure some folks here can help you out but...as someone who just became a DVX 100a owner...I, like you, was looking for quick information specifically on the DVX 100a camera.

Check out these two message boards.

http://www.dvcreators.com/discuss/

http://www.dvxuser.com

Both of these message boards have knowledgable people who can help you learn about the camera.

A helpful suggestion for new visitors to both those sites. Use the search function first for any questions you might have as both boards have been around for some time and many topics have already been discussed.
 
hey brian,
when you're doing your sit-downs, hopefully you can use an external monitor. the flip out screen is ok (keep it shaded as much as you can during your b-roll) but obviously the monitor will make sure your exposure is right.

i've found that you learn to 'read' the lcd when it comes to proper exposure. the picture 'changes' as your viewing angle to the lcd changes, (mainly up/down angles) so you have to kinda find what the 'proper' place is. i'd put the lcd brightness setting on 'norm'.

you can set the iris control to open as you roll the dial either up or down. i use 'up' as it makes sense to my brain - i think the default is down - which is backwards to me.

i set one of the user buttons up front to 'color bars' - not a big deal, but easier than digging thru the menus to get bars.

continually check the setup dial on the back of the camera - to the left of the batt - to make sure you haven't bumped it. i think the "A" model has a little ridge molded into the frame to help avoid accidental contact, but on my pre-a model, i've bumped it and changed the setting. i usually gaffer across it just to make sure it stays put. same with the audio levels when i'm out shooting b-roll.

do you have the manual? i'd download it, or let me know and i'll email you a copy. it's a good thing to cruise thru before you shoot. and to have close by if something goes wrong!

hope some of this helps. its just like any other camera from the standpoint of user controls - they all do basically the same thing, you just have to find the right buttons! after a short time, it'll be automatic to you.

[ December 12, 2005, 09:40 AM: Message edited by: Flaca Productions ]
 
I'm not 100% sure but i think on the dvx shooting in 16x9 is just like 4x3 except it just throws black bars up effectively losing resolution. If thats correct you may be better just throwing up black bars in post.
 
Within the menu system you can choose 4:3, 16x9, or stretch. Stretch does look rather weird when you are shooting, but it allows the editor to use true 16x9 in post. The 16x9 option, or cinema as they call it(I think), is not true 16x9 it is a cropped image. Again, I think.

Have the client double check with the editor on what they prefer.
 
Thank you everyone! Keep 'em coming!

I'm planning to read the manual on Talamas's web site. They have practically every manual you could ever want availoable to download on their site. It can be a real life saver.

I'll definitely check out the other user forums too.

I've heard about the squished image when shooting in 16x9. I'm not sure how the other footage the producer has was shot. I do know that in FCP5 it looks normal (4x3) in the preview monitor, but when she puts it on the time line it has to render, and then becomes letterbox format. Does that tell any one whether it was shot in true 16x9 or in masked "cinema" mode? Is there some other way to check?

UnfortunatelyI probably won't have a monitor. I have a really old one, and a tiney LCD, neither one is really reliable. A good production monitor is on my shopping list. Are the zebras accurate?

[ December 12, 2005, 09:00 PM: Message edited by: 2000lux ]
 
I found out that the previous shooter used the F6 setting. Is that true 24P, or a 29.7 24 frame emulator? It's also animorphic right? Does it also turn off the auto iris and autofocus automaticly?

Any more info' and pointers on shooting with this camera on this setting would be greatly appreciated!
 
This web page will give you a very technical definition of (Scene file #5) 24p vs 24pA (Scene file #6) Generally in laymans terms file #5 is for a "film look" with the end product being edited in 29.97 video and file #6 is intended for the footage that you are shooting to be transfered to film for end release in film in true 24 frames.

The DVX100A and the new DVX100B does not turn off the auto functions when shooting in files #5 & #6. You still must switch off the auto iris and auto focus. The DVX100A is a native 4:3 chip set. So, the camera does not shoot "real" 16:9. The "letterbox" function just lops off the top & bottom of the 4:3 frame. The "squeeze" mode operates like an anamorphic adaptor and permits the picture to be "unsqueezed" to a true 16:9 when loading footage into a NLE. BUT you loose some vertical resolution when using the "squeeze" mode. In other words, your picture will be slightly sharper in the letterbox mode.

[ December 14, 2005, 03:42 PM: Message edited by: dinosaur ]
 
I've just got to say what a great community this is. I've posted similar questions on DVX user sites and gotten fewer responses total than I have on this thread. Thank you all!

I don't know why the previous stuff was shot on the F6 setting. I didn't think she was planning to transfer to film. Oh well. At this point I think the best thing to do I think is keep it all consistant so that she can fix it all at once when the piece is done.

[ December 14, 2005, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: 2000lux ]
 
I just got back from the shoot. It went ok, but I'm still not a big fan of the little cameras. Perhaps it's just because I'm not used to them, but I find them slower to work with which makes them a bit frustrating in run and gun situations. I learned that while the flip out screen is handy for sitdown interviews, some B-roll (like when you're in an awkward position), or just want to check the color; I still prefer to switch the eyepiece to black and white and shoot with that. Even in black and white with the screen detail up I found it hard to tell if I was in focus. Normally I shoot with the zebras on, but the zebras on this camera are really distracting and I'm not even sure they're very accurate. The squeezed video for 16x9 was not as odd looking as I thought it would be. However, all the people did kind of look like Bert from Sesame Street. :)

Thanks again for all the help!

[ December 19, 2005, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: 2000lux ]
 
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