This was from "barry_s" at dvxuser regarding a DVX100 from many moons ago. I'm not saying this is accurate but may be worth a read. I know it's about a DVX100 but the logic is probably similar
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?6888-Guide-To-Cleaning-The-DVX100(a)-Recording-Heads
Cleaning The DVX100(a) Recording Heads
Warning: *The head cleaning procedure is simple, but must be done carefully and correctly. *Otherwise, you risk damaging the heads and facing an $800-900 repair to replace the heads. *If you have any doubts about your ability to perform the cleaning process, you should send the camera to a Panasonic authorized service center. *The typical charge for head cleaning is about $100.
The recording heads should be cleaned as necessary or at least every 50 hours of camera use. *If you’re cleaning the heads yourself, you can increase the frequency of cleaning to ensure problem-free recording in the field.
I am not an authorized Panasonic service technician and you follow these instructions at your own risk. *This is my own procedure and it may differ from other recommendations.
Materials
Pure (>99%) Isopropanol or recording head cleaner (do not use rubbing alcohol—it contains water and may cause corrosion to internal parts.)
Synthetic chamois recording head-cleaning swabs (cotton swabs may shed fibers and are not an acceptable substitute).
Rubber cleaning fluid.
Parts of the recording mechanism that may require cleaning:
Recording cylinder (the two small recording heads are embedded in the grooved silver recording cylinder)
Tape guides and angle pins (these guide the tape through the recording path)
Capstans *(these metal posts hold the tape against the rollers)
Rollers (for tape transport)
Work in a clean, well-lit area. *A work light shining into the cassette holder is useful for seeing what you’re doing. *Place the camera on a table with the Panasonic logo facing down and the lens pointing to your left. *Open the tape door and identify the parts you’ll be cleaning. *From left to right, in a row close to you—a blue tape guide, two white tape guides, a rubber pinch-roller, and a metal capstan. *From left to right behind the first row—two angle pins, the silver recording cylinder, an angle pin, and a tape guide.
Clean the recording heads first by moistening (damp, but not dripping) a chamois-tipped swab with some isopropanol or cleaning fluid. *Place the swab against the surface of the recording cylinder. *Using a second dry swab, rotate the cylinder clockwise while you hold the moistened swab against the cylinder. *Rotate the cylinder for five or six full revolutions. *The cylinder must be cleaned in a horizontal motion. *Cleaning with a vertical motion greatly increases the chances of damaging the heads.
Next, with a new moistened swab, clean the tape guides, angle pins, and capstans with a horizontal motion. *Finally, moisten another swab with rubber cleaning fluid and clean the rubber roller. *Do not use isopropanol or other solvents on the rubber roller—it will dry out the rubber. *Do not use any lubricants on the rubber roller. *If you don’t have the proper rubber cleaning solution—leave the roller alone.
Notes:
If it seems like the recording heads on the DVX100 are the most troublesome part of the camera—you’d be right. *The recording cylinder spins at about 9000 rpm and the track width in the DV format is only 10 microns wide. *For comparison, the VHS track width is 59 microns, and a human hair is about 100 microns in diameter. *It doesn’t take much of a particle to lodge in the tape heads and cause problems. *Fortunately, most head problems are easily fixed with a gentle cleaning. *Never use cleaning tapes—they’re abrasive and can rub debris into the recording head.
