Socoland LED Panel Lights

Nino

Well-known member
There are some past threads on the Socoland

http://www.b-roll.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27187

They are available in the US, I got 2 from Batteries4Broadcast.com

Like always, you get what you pay for. If you baby them they will last. They are not built very well, but again most stuff built in China isn't.

I have a lot of Coollights that I use when I built large studio-like set ups so I tried the Socolands to see how they work. Like most LED they have a high green spike, but it appears that the Socoland is a bit higher. You can reduce it by bringing up 3200K dimmer. However there's not specific setting to reduce the green so it's a test anytime you use it. Coolights comes with a plexiglass filter that reduce the green, but it also reduce the output but at least they are consistent. Also keep in mind that even within the same manufacturer the green spike might change from batch to catch. At NAB where they are all displayed there even within the same manufacturer in the same booth you can see the different levels of green, at least I notice it, most people don't.

White balance do not remove the green and color temperature meters do not read the LED spectrum. There are tons of articles published on the subject, do a google search.

Another manufacturer's screw up on the Socolands is that you can't use the yoke for the purpose that it was intended to do, I don't know if they fix it yet. It hits screws on the light and you can only tilt it half way upward, if you have a client who manufacturer ceilings then you're good. You can get creative and circumnavigate the problem but it's a joke that it was even put on the market that way.
 

dhart

Well-known member
I like mine, use gel to remove green tint. Have to disagree with Nino a bit, I think they are built like a tank (metal as opposed to plastic construction). Agree the yoke assembly is a problem (not a fan of the whole "yoke" concept to begin with wish they had a Kinoflo type mount) Bi-color is a plus. Dimmer works well. I'd buy them again.
 

supedog

PRO user
There are some past threads on the Socoland

http://www.b-roll.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27187

They are available in the US, I got 2 from Batteries4Broadcast.com

Like always, you get what you pay for. If you baby them they will last. They are not built very well, but again most stuff built in China isn't.

I have a lot of Coollights that I use when I built large studio-like set ups so I tried the Socolands to see how they work. Like most LED they have a high green spike, but it appears that the Socoland is a bit higher. You can reduce it by bringing up 3200K dimmer. However there's not specific setting to reduce the green so it's a test anytime you use it. Coolights comes with a plexiglass filter that reduce the green, but it also reduce the output but at least they are consistent...
Thanks Nino. I went to the Coollights website also, and tried to order and they only have spot 5600K in the LED Panel Lights. I would prefer to order a flood and spot. I guess they ran out of product.
 

lsyoung

Member
Just out of curiosity, is this green spike present in ALL LEDS'S? Or just 3200º Lights or 5600º lights? Or both? What about Bi-color?
 

netnews

Active member
I own a number of the Socanland and Camlight LED fixtures. These lights have worked out very well for the last 8 months. They are all Bi-Color with built in dimmers and run off AC or battery - a 160WH battery will run one for a day or more. The fact that they are low wattage, light weight, bi-color and dimmable allows for a quick and easy setup - definitely makes life easier for run and gun and OMB setups! The bi-color not only provides 3200 and 5600 degrees kelvin but allows you to mix to anything in between - works great with blended light sources! One note - LED's will not replace an HMI in moderate or bright sunshine - not enough punch.

I agree that the yoke on the 1x Socanland could have a better design - but the lights are metal and well built and have been working well. Like all LED and fluorescent lights they have a slight green spike but a sheet of quarter minus green gel seems to correct it. (Most people don't even notice it uncorrected).

Honestly, for the price difference between these and comparable LP lights it's difficult to justify the cost of the LP's. Actually, a number of photogs that I work with that bought the original 1x LP's, after seeing mine, have gone out and bought these imported LED's.

The best place for price and customer service I've found is Intellytech in Denver. Aaron Schweid is a nice guy and does a great job! http://www.it-photovideo.com
 

Douglas

Well-known member
Just out of curiosity, is this green spike present in ALL LEDS'S? Or just 3200º Lights or 5600º lights? Or both? What about Bi-color?
I've tested my 5600K Litepanels 1x1 lights with a DSC ChromaDuMonde chart and a Gretag Macbeth chart using my F800 and a Leader LV-5330 vectorscope. I feel very confident in saying there is no green spike at all with the Litepanels. Nor are any correction gels necessary. The quality of light from them really looks great.

In fact, when I compare a Lowel tungsten DP vs. a 5600K Litepanels on the two charts (white balancing for each light) you cannot tell them apart. The shots are 99.9% exactly the same.

One of my Litepanels is a bi-color, but I have only tested the 5600K mode since I don't use 3200K often enough to care about it. I just use it to crank in a little bit of warmth whenever it helps the shot. All of my lighting is now daylight balanced and battery operated.

I'm now 100% LED (no tungsten or flo at all) for interviews -- which covers about 95% of what I ever have to light. So, having some very nice lights is more important to me than saving a few bucks on Chinese knockoffs. No regrets going with genuine Litepanels -- plus they have the fresnels that I also needed to round out the kit.
 

Nino

Well-known member
I'm now 100% LED (no tungsten or flo at all) for interviews -- which covers about 95% of what I ever have to light. So, having some very nice lights is more important to me than saving a few bucks on Chinese knockoffs. No regrets going with genuine Litepanels -- plus they have the fresnels that I also needed to round out the kit.
OK, let get back to basic. One of the reasons that after 42 years my phone rings more than ever is because I never let convenience or technology effect the quality of my work. Although I’m a certified gadget freak, if it has an on/off switch I probably own it, and I have at least 2 dozens of LEDs lights, my priority has always been and always will be, is what the camera sees and not how easy or fast it is for me to do it. Granted there are times that we have to fight the clock but my theory has always been of why hire and pay the high price of an award winning chef when all you need is somebody to cook scramble eggs.

It really doesn’t matter if the LED light you use cost $300 or $3000, the physic of light doesn’t change, it is still a one foot by one foot light source and for interviews it’s the very last thing I would want to use, unless is for the 6 o’clock local news and I don't do those. Even the sample of interviews shown on the Litepanel web site in my opinion suck, I told this to the Litepanel people at NAB but those guys are salesmen not artists.

We are reversing the principle of quality in favor of technology and convenience, and that's a dangerous process.

One foot by one foot light is the size of the subject head, meaning that you don’t have the wraparound that gives interviews and portraitures the quality they should have. You can take the cheapest Lowel open face, spread the barn door at the widest, attach one or more layer of diffusion and for about $150 the visual result will be almost identical that those obtained with a $3000 Litepanel. Again, the physic of light doesn’t change, you still have a one foot by one foot light source, what you are buying for the additional $2850 is convenience; important I must admit but with either 1'x1' lights hardly and not even close to the quality we are capable to achieve.

The only reason I chosen the Cool Lights over other LED fixtures was because it was, and I believe still is, the only LED light available with a soft box, and that makes a world of difference. Granted, it cut the output way down, but that’s very good too because it forces me to use the largest aperture in my lens and that’s exactly what I want in order to create depth and separation.

The lights that I use the most for interviews are the Kino. A 4ft fixture for key, two 3ft Vistas (one for fill and one for edge) and 200 Barfly for backlights, and as many Arri fresnels that I need for backgrounds.

Yet, with all this technology and this investment in lights my favorite light hasn’t changed in my 42 years in this business. This is actually what we used in art school almost 50 years ago.

A simple open face light shining thru a large diffusion. When you can control the distance of the light to the diffusion and the distance of the diffusion to the subject source, you have total control over the light and there's no technological substitute today that will achieve the same results, no matter how much you spend. And if quality is more important than convenience, all this will cost about $800 or even less.

If the ambient allows it, meaning the room is not the size of a closet with white walls, this is still my favorite light and what many of my clients love.





 

Douglas

Well-known member
1) I didn't buy LED lights to save money.
2) If someone thinks that Litepanels can't provide very nice interview lighting, they are wrong.
3) It does not matter to me what someone else says, because I see the results every day.
 

Nino

Well-known member
Brian: do you have the Coolights softbox? If so, how much does it knock down the useful light?
I know that Brian doesn't have one yet.
I've done interviews with black athletes in a dark gym that had absolutely no accessible electrical outlets and had to go entirely battery power.

The key light with the softbox and the minus green gel, (that I permanently mounted on each light) I was shooting at f2.8, 0db with the key light between 3 and 4 feet from the subject.

I used two Coolights 600 (one key and one fill) both with soft boxes and half a dozen of the smaller Coolights 256 for back lights and background.
 

supedog

PRO user
Nino:

Do you know what the deal is with Cool Lights? I mentioned in a previous post that I tried to place an order on the Cool Lights website and the drop down menu only has the 5600K Spots, no floods. It has been like that for a while. Did they stop manufacturing the LED Flood Panel Lights?
 

2000lux

Well-known member
Brian: do you have the Coolights softbox? If so, how much does it knock down the useful light?
Actually I e-mailed Nino last night to ask him basically the same question (hence the mention in his post above). Thank you Nino for the quick and thorough response!

According to the Cool Lights web site, the 600 is roughly equivalent to a 600 W light. Thus Nino's answer is about what I expected. Gelling a light (for example, the magenta, minus green he mentioned) always knocks it down significantly. I think a Chimera usually knocks about a stop off a light too, so I'm guessing that's what the CL light box does.

I wish the CL1200 came in a squarer shape like the 600, with the four barn doors, and that they offered a soft box for it. I think that light would be powerful enough to do more things with. I e-mailed Cool Lights last night about that and they responded, "We may have plans to do that but can't give any definitive dates and certainly not any time soon. In the meantime, people are using floziers on the barndoors and also just shining through frames." I think that's encouraging. It sounds like NAB may be too soon though?

Has any one left the magenta (minus green) out and white balanced on a warm card, or a minus green card like the ones Douglas sells?

When I have to shoot under those awful mercury vapor lights that they often use in convention centers or gymnasiums, the best way I've found to get good colors is to white balance on a blue card. I usually use the #1 "1/2 blue" in my older Warm Cards set. Some how that counters the awful green cast of the lights and the usually washed out look you get when you just balance on white under those lights. I get nice vibrant accurate colors instead. On an older camera (I actually shot a Betacam just a few weeks ago) I use the 5600K (usually filter 3) filter, and white balanced on a light blue card for optimal results. The minus green card has not worked well for me with those particular lights.

When I'm under those lights, I often use an on camera LED light with out any gels for a fill light. The colors match very well.

That's why I was wondering if any one has tried white balancing off a blue or minus green card when using LEDs that have a greenish spike, with out their magenta filter?
 
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Nino

Well-known member
Nino:

Do you know what the deal is with Cool Lights? I mentioned in a previous post that I tried to place an order on the Cool Lights website and the drop down menu only has the 5600K Spots, no floods. It has been like that for a while. Did they stop manufacturing the LED Flood Panel Lights?
Let's get something clear here, I have nothing to do with Coollights whatsoever, I'm a customer just like everybody else. It so happened that when I started testing LED lights they were the only one who had soft boxes available. I've been getting a good service and the reason that I own at least two dozens of their lights is because I want consistency in colors as the output and green spike varies from different manufacturers.

Usually when the item is still listed but not available means that it's backordered, send then an email at Cool Lights <info@coollights.biz> and ask when the items that you are looking for will be available.
 
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