Just two questions.....

[<thenewguy>]

Hey guys, so I'm still getting situated as a photog.....two questions: What is the purpose of the peaking knob on the dvcpro 50s? I understand its for critical focus, but how does the graininess help in focusing? Second, I understand zebras, but what do the numbers mean if my camera is set at 90% and the other photogs camera is set at 95%? Thanks for your help guys

[<Back2thefuture2>]

Well, I have not worked with DVpro so I will explain the bars. As you know, it is used to see how bright your exposer is. I set my bars at 75%. But I dont know if it is any different on DVpro cams. If you were to look at a waveform you would see that black "light/color" is 0% and true white or the max white is 100% As you and I know, everything near 100% is over exposed and vise versa. It depends on the photog where they set the bars for it is only a reference on where you are exposed at in regards to dark/light/bright. Think of it this way. On your viewfinder, you could have your contrast knob and your brightness knob all our of wack. The only way to adjust your viewfinder is to use colorbars from your camera. But what if you did not and your zbars were not turned on. The viewfinder may look nicely exposed but your true exposer is way off because your viewfinder brightness is way low so your open your iris to fix it but then everything is ****ed. So your bars are the true exposer. Where ever the bars are blinging, is where the bright 75% white is. Mess around and you will learn alot from bars.

[<NYshooter>]

First of all everyone in your shop should have their cameras set to the same IRE, whether it's 85%, 90% or 100%. This is to prevent mistakes, so sit down with your fellow staff members and pick a number.

At 100%, you should just lose all zebra on white faces. At 85%, I believe you should see zebra on the "hot spots" of the face (cheeks, forehead).

I always set my peaking to the highest level. Same with contrast, but when it comes to viewfinder brightness, I always tone it down just a touch.

[Tyna]

What peaking does is add some sharpness to your viewfinder. It does not affect the recording, so feel free to set it where it feels best for your eye.

Peaking helps with focusing, but only if you have it set properly. If it is set too high, your viewfinder will be too grainy, and if it's too low, your viewfinder will be too soft. You kind of want your peaking somewhere in the middle. If your picture is too soft, you'll spend most of your time questioning your focus, and if your picture is too sharp (grainy), it will be difficult to focus.

Hope this helps.

[Tyna]

As Nyshooter pointed out, on most cameras the peaking does not over adjust enough to go too sharp, my DVCpro50 is the first camera I've ever had to turn the peaking down on. On every other camera I've used, I've usually had it up to it's highest point as well, and in some cases it was just an on/off switch.

[SandRat]

Crank up the peaking! It really aids in focusing for sports shoots or macro work.

I find it strange when I pick up another phojo's camera and the peaking is turned down so far, I can't even tell if the back-focus is adjusted properly.

As for zebras, I prefer mine at 85%. I think each photographer should find the best setting for themselves and use it (unless your in a camera sharing situation). Before I use a camera other than my own, I check the setting. I want my camera customized to my own preferences. If you don't have the wherewithall to check the settings on a camera you're about to use, your problems run deeper than over-exposed interviews. To each his own, by I'm fond of MY way.

[(Sin)ical]

I agree with the Sandrat! Crank it up...you'll know when something is in focus because it will jump out at you in your viewfinder. It's like looking at shutter speed all the time. Zebras are a usefull crutch for exposure...but after time you won't even need them. It's always safe to have them because every lighting condition is different, but once you are used to shooting with your viewfinder settings....you won't need the zebras.

[<Bill>]

On my DVCpro I set the stripe at 75% and then just get the striles coming on at skin tone. It looks better if it isn't driven too hard. And I agree with the others crank the peaking up.

[<thenewguy>]

But how does the peaking help in telling if the backfocus is properly adjusted or not?


Originally posted by SandRat:
Crank up the peaking! It really aids in focusing for sports shoots or macro work.

I find it strange when I pick up another phojo's camera and the peaking is turned down so far, I can't even tell if the back-focus is adjusted properly.

As for zebras, I prefer mine at 85%. I think each photographer should find the best setting for themselves and use it (unless your in a camera sharing situation). Before I use a camera other than my own, I check the setting. I want my camera customized to my own preferences. If you don't have the wherewithall to check the settings on a camera you're about to use, your problems run deeper than over-exposed interviews. To each his own, by I'm fond of MY way.

[Tyna]

Alright....if the backfocus is not set correctly, your entire picture will go out of focus when you zoom out. Peaking is kind of similar to aliasing in graphics....if you still see some of it around the sharp edges of the subject that you focused on, your backfocus is fine. If the subject you focused on looks fuzzy, your backfocus is out. Adjust your backfocus ring until you see some aliasing, thin shiny objects work best in the field. Things like message boards, metal poles, etc. Bring up your shutter speed and/or use your ND filters so you can open your iris all the way. This is only a temporary fix, when you get back to the station use a backfocus chart and reset your backfocus properly.

[Jax]

Turn off your zebras.

[SandRat]

Originally posted by Jax:
Turn off your zebras. Why, why, why? There's always one photog in a bunch who says this and/or "I shoot with nats on channel one and my subject/wireless on channel two."

I know my camera well enough to shoot with my eyes closed, but I don't. If the contrast or brightness on your viewfinder gets bumped, guess what, unusable vid. There's no excuse for it.

That's why they've put zebras on pro/consumer model handy cams, because the pros demand them.

If there is some other magic way to be sure of your exposure without using photo-cards, I'd love to know. Otherwise your just guessing.

[<Referee>]

Skin tones for caucasions are usually around 75 IRE. I prefer to have my level set there...cover there face in zebra and unless they are especially red or tan or pale it is close enough exposure wise. If you have two zebra settings, I'd put the other on 100 IRE so that you will know when something creeping up on overexposed. I'm a hardass about exposing for facial tones and not the overall scene... Most people watching are looking at the person talking most of the time. experience will tell you when to switch it up. Watch some movies...Frequently faces are dark with the lighting...so there are uses.